Recently, Alpine provided exclusive behind-the-scenes access to their cutting-edge development gearbox. This unique unit features a see-through casing used for oil flow testing, an essential part of preparing for the sport’s ever-evolving regulations. Here’s an in-depth look at how F1 gearboxes work and why they represent some of the most intricate engineering in motorsport.

What Is an F1 Gearbox, and Where Does It Sit?

The gearbox in a Formula 1 car is housed in a casing bolted directly to the engine. This casing also supports the entire rear suspension, placing it between the engine and the differential. The placement is not only essential for structural integrity but also for the aerodynamic profile of the car.

The see-through casing used in Alpine’s development gearbox allowed engineers to study the flow of oil in real time. This process was critical during the development of their 2022 car, ensuring every component received proper lubrication.

Why Oil Flow Matters

Oil flow is vital to the longevity and performance of an F1 gearbox. Insufficient lubrication leads to heat buildup, excessive wear, and ultimately catastrophic failure—potentially costing the team a race. The oil pump, driven by the speed of the gearbox, ensures a consistent flow of oil that increases with the gearbox’s speed.

To test this, Alpine ran the gearbox on a dyno, simulating various conditions to study the oil’s behavior. While software simulations can provide theoretical insights, real-world testing remains indispensable to validate the system’s performance.

The Inner Workings of an F1 Gearbox

Power from the engine enters the gearbox through a drive shaft and is distributed to the wheels via a complex arrangement of gears and shafts. In an F1 car, the gears are not arranged sequentially from first to eighth. Instead, lower gears are positioned closer to the bearings, where they can handle higher torque, while higher gears sit further away, reducing stress on the shaft.

Each team is limited to five driveline assemblies per season, including all gearbox components, before penalties apply. This regulation means gearboxes must last approximately 3,000 miles—an enormous demand given the intense forces and heat they endure during races.

Precision Meets Performance

Modern F1 gearboxes feature over 500 components packed into their lightweight casings. They must strike a perfect balance between strength and weight. As the legendary Colin Chapman once said, “Adding power makes you faster on the straights; subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere.” This philosophy is evident in every aspect of F1 gearbox design.

Interestingly, the reverse gear—a mandatory feature in F1—is rarely used during races. When it is, drivers must navigate several menu layers in the car’s software to engage it, highlighting its limited role in overall performance.

Oil Circulation and Cooling

The gearbox’s oil circulation system is straightforward yet effective. Oil is pumped from a reservoir at the bottom of the casing, sprayed onto the gears via a spray bar, and circulated back through the system. This constant flow ensures every component remains lubricated and cool, even under extreme conditions.

At Alpine, a single oil pump handles about a litre of oil, demonstrating the efficiency required to maintain performance at the highest level of motorsport.

The Role of the Differential

One of the more complex elements of an F1 gearbox is the differential, which allows the rear wheels to spin at different speeds—a crucial feature for navigating corners efficiently. Unlike a road car, the F1 differential includes a clutch mechanism that can lock the wheels together under acceleration, providing better traction out of corners.

The differential is controlled hydraulically, enabling drivers to adjust its settings on the fly, depending on the cornering demands of each section of the track.

Why F1 Gearboxes Are So Expensive

With a price tag exceeding $6 million annually, F1 gearboxes represent an enormous investment for teams. This cost reflects the relentless pursuit of performance, as well as the precision engineering and materials required to handle the extreme demands of modern Formula 1.

Each component is meticulously designed, tested, and manufactured to withstand incredible forces while maintaining a minimal weight. The result is a masterpiece of engineering that exemplifies the sport’s mantra: performance above all else.

The post How An F1 Gearbox Works (I went to the factory) appeared first on Driver61.

Breaking Tradition with Gas Turbine Power

The Lotus 56 was created at a time when motorsport engineering was experimental and open to radical ideas. Instead of a conventional engine, the Lotus 56 was powered by a Pratt & Whitney ST6B-76 gas turbine, producing between 500 and 600 horsepower. Unlike a jet engine, which generates thrust, the gas turbine in the Lotus 56 converted power directly to the wheels, creating a unique drive system that required no gearbox. This streamlined the design, saved weight, and offered the potential for superior acceleration and stability.

Freedom in Motorsport Design: A 1960s Playground

The era of the 1960s allowed for immense freedom in race car design. Formula 1 regulations were relatively relaxed, enabling teams to experiment. This led to other notable innovations of the time, such as the four-wheel-drive Ferguson P99 and the six-wheeled Tyrrell P34. The Lotus 56 capitalised on this flexibility by using its turbine engine and incorporating four-wheel drive, which improved traction and control.

The Indy 500’s Influence on the Lotus 56

The Lotus 56 was initially designed for the Indianapolis 500, a track focused on speed and endurance. Joe Leonard secured pole position in the 56, reaching 171.5 mph, and it led much of the race. However, mechanical failures in the 500-mile race led to none of the Lotus 56 cars finishing. Despite this, the car’s potential was clear—its unique shape and gas turbine engine gave it an edge over traditional cars in terms of speed and weight.

Adapting the Lotus 56 for Formula 1

Following the 1968 Indy 500, Lotus adapted the car, creating the 56B model to compete in Formula 1. The F1 version included added wings for downforce, a necessary adjustment for F1 tracks that demanded tight cornering and rapid acceleration. However, the adaptation faced challenges; the gas turbine’s throttle response was slow, which meant that drivers had to anticipate and apply power much earlier than in traditional cars. While four-wheel drive proved advantageous on wet tracks, the car struggled to meet the demands of the more complex F1 circuits.

High Risk, High Reward: Chapman’s Vision

The driving force behind the Lotus 56’s radical design was Colin Chapman, founder of Lotus and an engineering innovator. Chapman believed in “adding lightness,” and the gas turbine allowed for a lightweight car without a heavy gearbox. Although the turbine engine burned fuel quickly and required large fuel tanks, it offered Chapman a glimpse of a future where racing was defined by lightweight, power-efficient machines.

Why the Lotus 56 Was Ultimately Banned

The Lotus 56’s presence in both IndyCar and F1 sparked a regulatory reaction. At the Indy 500, governing bodies restricted turbine cars’ allowable air intake to limit their advantage. By 1970, turbine engines were banned outright in the Indy 500. In F1, the 56B model’s performance was inconsistent. Though impressive in the rain, the car failed to score points, and by the end of 1971, Lotus abandoned the project.

Legacy of the Lotus 56

The Lotus 56 remains a symbol of motorsport innovation. Its experimental design and engineering courage reflect a time when motorsport was a testbed for the extremes of automotive design. Although it was ultimately banned, the Lotus 56 influenced the evolution of F1 technology and served as a reminder of what’s possible when engineering and imagination meet on the track.

The post The Incredible Story of the Jet Powered F1 Car appeared first on Driver61.

Formula 1 braking systems are marvels of engineering, designed to bring a car traveling over 200 mph to a near standstill within seconds. This feat subjects the driver to nearly 6G in deceleration, enough to test even the most experienced athletes. But what makes F1 brakes capable of such intense stopping power? Let’s dive into the technology, guided by the Alpine F1 team, to understand the incredible mechanics behind F1’s braking systems.

Why F1 Brakes Matter

In F1, every millisecond counts. Braking late allows a car to gain crucial seconds, making brake performance pivotal. For example, if two cars are racing at 200 mph, and one car brakes just 10 metres later than the other, it gains 0.078 seconds. Although small, this difference could be decisive, and F1 teams invest millions to optimise every aspect of braking.

The Force Behind the Brake Pedal

An F1 driver exerts a staggering 180 kg of force on the brake pedal. This isn’t your average car pedal; it’s made from a single piece of carbon fibre to maintain strength without adding weight, with each pedal customized to the driver’s foot. Such force transmits through the master cylinder to convert the pedal pressure into hydraulic power, initiating the braking action.

Master Cylinder and Brake-by-Wire

Modern F1 cars have a tandem master cylinder, handling both front and rear brakes simultaneously. This setup is paired with a brake-by-wire system, which adjusts the braking pressure based on real-time data. The ECU takes over the rear braking pressure during energy recovery, reducing the risk of rear lock-up, which can destabilise the car. Maintaining this balance is critical for driver confidence, allowing precise brake application even in split-second decisions.

Hydraulic Lines and Calipers

From the master cylinder, brake fluid travels through Hardline pipes and braided steel hoses. The Alpine F1 team prefers Hardline pipes where possible, as they provide rigidity and minimise expansion under pressure. However, for flexibility—especially as the calipers move with suspension—braided hoses are employed. The calipers themselves are high-strength alloy, designed to withstand the enormous heat and pressure generated during braking.

Carbon-Composite Discs

Formula 1 brake discs are crafted from carbon composite material, designed to endure temperatures exceeding 1,000° C. These discs have thousands of drilled holes to increase surface area, allowing heat to dissipate faster. The larger brake discs now used with 18-inch wheels provide added leverage, making it easier to decelerate rapidly. Due to wear and tear, Alpine typically replaces these discs after each race weekend.

The Role of Brake-by-Wire in Energy Recovery

Energy recovery has transformed F1 braking, adding complexity to the rear brakes. Brake-by-wire systems adjust rear braking pressure, balancing it with the energy recovered by the MGU-K (Motor Generator Unit-Kinetic). This means that instead of physical pressure from the pedal, the ECU can modify brake application to match energy needs, maintaining stability and optimising speed.

Conclusion

The braking systems of Formula 1 cars, exemplified by Alpine F1’s approach, are testaments to engineering precision and innovation. These brakes allow F1 drivers to control deceleration at incredible speeds, balancing physical demands and the need for precise stopping power. As F1 evolves, so does braking technology, continually pushing the boundaries of what’s possible on the track.

The post How Formula 1 Brakes Work appeared first on Driver61.

The Challenge of the Nordschleife

The Nordschleife presents unique challenges that push both driver and machine to their limits. Its narrow, bumpy sections and sudden changes in elevation are the opposite of the perfectly smooth circuits F1 cars are designed for. Formula 1 cars rely heavily on finely tuned aerodynamics and stability to maximize downforce, grip, and speed. Yet on a track like the Nordschleife, these high-tech machines are out of their comfort zone, with unpredictable bumps and turns making it difficult to maintain control.

In 2007, Nick Heidfeld drove a BMW Sauber F1 car around the Nordschleife. This wasn’t a full-speed run—the car’s suspension was softened, ride height was increased, and its top speed was limited to 170 mph. Even so, Heidfeld clocked an impressive 8-minute, 34-second lap on the combined Nordschleife and GP Loop, which included slowing down for filming purposes. Road & Track magazine later calculated that an unrestricted lap time could have been around 5 minutes and 58 seconds.

The Turbulent History of Lap Records

The current Nordschleife lap record belongs to the Porsche 919 Evo, which set an incredible 5-minute, 19-second lap in 2018. This no-rules machine benefited from the freedom to break away from WEC regulations, adding downforce and adjusting suspension settings for ultimate performance. Porsche’s lap was an impressive 52 seconds faster than the previous record and raised questions about how close a modern F1 car could come to that time.

While modern F1 cars are fast, ground-effect designs mean they rely on maintaining a precise ride height to generate downforce. The bumpy Nordschleife would disrupt this, reducing the car’s effectiveness compared to a purpose-built track like Spa or Silverstone. Additionally, with the F1 cars’ stiffer suspensions, managing the uneven road surface would be challenging, decreasing mechanical grip and adding unpredictability.

The Red Bull Run and Lap Time Simulations

In 2023, Red Bull returned to the Nürburgring with Sebastian Vettel and David Coulthard behind the wheel of the RB7 and RB8. Though they didn’t push these cars to their limits, simulations estimated that the RB8 could have done a lap in 5 minutes and 13 seconds—significantly faster than Heidfeld’s run and close to the Porsche 919 Evo’s record.

However, experts believe a current 2024 F1 car could complete the lap in around 5 minutes and 23 seconds. Although competitive, it might still fall short of the 919 Evo due to the challenges of ground effect on the Nordschleife’s rugged surface and the demands of maintaining stability on such a complex track.

The post When F1 Ran at The Nurburgring appeared first on Driver61.

Investment and New Hires Paying Off

McLaren’s resurgence in 2024 is no accident; it’s the result of years of investment and strategic hiring. Under Zak Brown’s leadership, McLaren has bolstered its technical team with experienced personnel, including Rob Marshall from Red Bull as chief designer. The team also promoted trusted figures like Andrea Stella to team principal, and elevated Peter Prodromou and Neil Houldey to technical directors in aerodynamics and engineering. This cohesive, experienced team has strengthened McLaren’s ability to optimize car performance and react swiftly to on-track demands.

McLaren’s success isn’t just about high-profile hires; the team’s new approach to upgrades has been a game-changer. They introduced significant updates in Miami and Zandvoort, and these changes worked seamlessly from the start. Instead of minor tweaks, McLaren’s upgrades cover multiple areas of the car, from aerodynamics to suspension, all aimed at maximizing downforce in an efficient way.

Drivers Making a Difference

The driver lineup also plays a huge role in McLaren’s newfound success. Oscar Piastri has shown remarkable progress, consistently improving his performance with each race. Lando Norris, meanwhile, is having the best season of his career, securing multiple fastest laps, pole positions, and podiums. This strong pairing has helped McLaren climb the standings, with both drivers pushing each other and the car to its limits.

Key Stats and Impact of Upgrades

Before McLaren’s major updates in Miami, the team averaged 19.2 points per race. Post-upgrade, this figure jumped to an impressive 31.1 points. These updates weren’t one-offs; McLaren followed up with additional upgrades in Zandvoort, further enhancing the car’s competitiveness. This commitment to continuous improvement has not only elevated McLaren’s position in the Constructors’ Championship but also brought them closer to challenging Red Bull.

Challenges Red Bull Is Facing

While McLaren has been gaining momentum, Red Bull has encountered some challenges. Their car is still incredibly fast but has proven difficult to handle, especially under changing conditions. Additionally, FIA’s asymmetric braking ban has raised questions about whether Red Bull’s early advantage was affected by adjustments to their braking system.

Red Bull’s recent struggles also highlight the limitations of their aging wind tunnel, built over 70 years ago. While they plan to launch a new wind tunnel in Milton Keynes by 2026, McLaren is already benefiting from its state-of-the-art wind tunnel at their Technology Centre. This gives McLaren an edge in testing, allowing them to analyze upgrades more effectively and bring better-performing components to the track faster.

Red Bull’s Testing Limitations

Under the ATR (Aerodynamic Testing Regulations), Red Bull’s championship success has led to a reduced number of wind tunnel runs. McLaren, on the other hand, received 15% more runs than Red Bull at the beginning of the year, allowing them to test additional aerodynamic solutions. Even after the mid-year ATR reset, McLaren maintains more wind tunnel time, a crucial advantage as they refine their car in the second half of the season.

McLaren’s Path to the Constructors’ Championship

With only a few races left, McLaren appears well-positioned to compete for the Constructors’ Championship. Their two strong drivers give them a unique advantage, although it could complicate their chances in the Drivers’ Championship, where Max Verstappen currently holds a strong lead. As long as McLaren allows Norris and Piastri to race freely while following “papaya rules”—a team approach focused on clean, non-aggressive racing—they stand a solid chance.

McLaren’s remarkable turnaround in 2024 is a testament to the power of strategic investment, expert hires, and a commitment to constant improvement. The combination of innovative upgrades, top-tier facilities, and a talented driver duo has put them back at the forefront of F1. As the season heads into its final stretch, McLaren’s momentum suggests that their years of groundwork may soon pay off with a title-contending finish.

The post Why McLaren Are Now So Fast appeared first on Driver61.

The Pacific Grand Prix and Senna’s Suspicion

It all began at the 1994 Pacific Grand Prix, where Ayrton Senna, forced out of the race due to an early collision, watched from the sidelines. From this vantage point, he noticed something peculiar about the Benetton cars driven by Michael Schumacher and Jos Verstappen. The sound of their engines, particularly when exiting corners, struck him as strange. To Senna, it sounded like the soft misfire associated with traction control—a technology banned that season.

Engineering Innovations and FIA’s 1994 Ban

Just a year earlier, Formula 1 cars had been brimming with advanced driver aids like active suspension, traction control, and ABS. However, these innovations, while making cars faster and more stable, also simplified driving. The FIA stepped in, banning many of these aids in 1994 to increase driver dependency and, ostensibly, safety. This decision forced teams to adapt their engineering approaches, but not all teams were willing to abandon every advantage.

Traction Control Loopholes

Benetton was known for its technical prowess, and they saw opportunity in the new rules. Their approach involved adapting engine management to mimic traction control without technically violating the ban. By limiting engine acceleration in lower gears, they reduced the likelihood of wheel spin, particularly in first and second gears. This setup allowed drivers like Schumacher to maximize grip when launching off the line or navigating tight corners.

The Clever Use of Airbox Sensors

One of Benetton’s most ingenious methods was exploiting the airbox sensor, which measures pressure changes as the car moves through gears. By tracking these pressure changes, the team could approximate the car’s speed and thus identify the gear, allowing them to apply their power limit strategy more effectively. This workaround, while clever, pushed the boundaries of what was legally acceptable.

The Launch Control Discovery

After Ayrton Senna’s tragic death in May 1994, further investigation into Benetton revealed hidden software labeled “launch control”—a feature that automated the start sequence. Although Benetton argued it was only used during testing and required code reconfiguration for activation, the software’s mere existence raised suspicions. Launch control provided a potential advantage by managing clutch, gear shifts, and engine speed automatically—another banned driver aid. Ultimately, Benetton faced a fine but avoided harsher penalties due to the FIA’s inability to prove in-race usage.

Refuelling Controversy at the German Grand Prix

Benetton’s controversies extended to the German Grand Prix, where they were found to have removed a refuelling rig filter. The removal was intended to speed up pit stops, but it was against FIA regulations. Although Benetton claimed the filter removal had minimal effect, it became a contentious issue, especially after a dangerous pit fire involving Verstappen’s car. To mitigate fallout, team principal Flavio Briatore accepted a substantial fine.

Legacy of the 1994 Scandal

Despite these controversies, Benetton and Schumacher secured both the Drivers’ and Constructors’ Championships in 1994. The year remains a critical chapter in F1 history, highlighting the constant push and pull between engineering innovation and regulatory enforcement. For Benetton, the season’s engineering choices brought both triumph and scrutiny, forever shaping their legacy in Formula 1.

This article encapsulates the innovative yet controversial engineering tactics used by Benetton during one of F1’s most memorable seasons. Their strategies, from manipulating engine control to modifying refuelling rigs, serve as a case study in pushing technical boundaries. The 1994 season reminds us that Formula 1 is as much a battle of engineering ingenuity as it is a race of pure driving skill.

The post F1’s Cheating Scandal of 1994 appeared first on Driver61.

The post Driver61’s Ultimate F1 Setup Guide appeared first on Driver61.

Sim racing can be an expensive hobby, with drivers investing some serious money into their rigs and setups. Overlooking the pedals as a source of improvement, however, is all too common. 

With minor adjustments to your pedals that literally take seconds, you can find yourself feeling more confident, consistent and aggressive on your feet. 

In sim racing you have two sensory inputs that tell your body you are driving a car; hands through force feedback and your feet through the pedals. It is therefore critical to driving performance that both your wheel and pedals are set correctly. 

In this article, we aim to cover some of the main differences and key terminology when it comes to pedals, as well as our recommended setup process for F1 2021, which you can skip to here.

Potentiometer vs Load Cell vs Hydraulic 

The above three are the most common types of pedals found in sim racing.

Before adjusting any of your pedal settings, it is important to first understand what type of pedals you are using. If you are unsure, a quick google of the manufacturer and model of your pedal should give you the answer.

Potentiometers are usually found in entry-level setups, whilst the higher-spec wheels will usually support Load Cell style pedals. Hydraulic pedals are not very common, however, they are out there; this is the top end of pedal setup and supposedly provides the highest level of feel.

Potentiometers are generally easier and quicker to manufacture which makes them less expensive. A potentiometer is a device that measures distance and turns this distance into an electrical signal. The electrical signal is picked up by the game and the relative braking force is applied to the in-game vehicle.

The system itself works very well and provides a great starting point for beginner drivers, however, the amount of ‘feel’ and progression through the pedal is reduced and therefore is not recommended if you are thinking about becoming a serious driver. Some of the Thrustmaster range, as well as the Logitech G29, G25, G920 and G925, use potentiometers in their pedal bases.

Load Cell pedals perform differently from Potentiometer pedals. A Load Cell measures the direct force applied to the pedal and turns this into an electrical signal which is then picked up by the game. A load cell pedal still moves the same way when pressed, however, there is a more realistic resistance pressing back. 

Load Cell pedals tend to be more accurate as they produce signals at a higher frequency than that of a potentiometer. This means that the inputs to the pedal are more sensitive, improving immersion and performance. 

Another key benefit to load cell pedals is that the amount of customisation is higher; depth of travel, pressure, resistance, etc can all be modified and adjusted.

Hydraulic pedals work very similarly to Load Cell pedals however they use a hydraulic reservoir containing fluid to mimic that of a real-world pedal. Again, the main benefits of using Hydraulic is the level of customisation and realistic feel.

Is there an advantage to be made in upgrading your pedal set? For outright performance, the general consensus is no. However, by using a load cell pedal, your consistency may improve over the length of an endurance style race when compared to a potentiometer. It will also be easier for you to learn certain handling characteristics and your skills as a driver will be easier to develop.

Seating Position and Pedal Position 

Before making any adjustments to your pedal settings, it is important to make sure that your seating position and pedal location is correct. There is a lot to be gained through correct body posture, as a more comfortable seating position means that you are less likely to fatigue over time. It is widely known when muscles begin to tire, they also decrease in performance and accuracy. There is a great article written here for a full, in-depth guide on seating position.

When pressing the brake, a large amount of force is given by your leg to the pedal. This force needs to be repeatable for your body to recognise exactly how hard to press. There are two important points to consider when setting your seating position and pedal position. 

Firstly, the distance between your seat and pedals. Your body should be sat at a distance so that when the clutch pedal is fully pressed, there is still a slight bend at the knee. If you don’t have a clutch pedal, then the throttle pedal should suffice. 

The length of the pedal press should come from the bend at the leg and not the rotation of your ankle. The ankle is not as strong as the knee and thigh muscles, and should therefore only be used for very fine, small adjustments to the pedal. 

The second point is ‘mounting’. Both your seat and pedal box should be (if possible) firmly mounted either to your rig, or firmly mounted to the floor. Pedal boxes that use carpet style grippers are usually not enough and tend to lift up when braking hard. Make sure you have something supporting the pedals from behind to stop them from slipping. 

The angle that you mount the pedals should also be a consideration, neither at the top or bottom of the pedal stroke should your ankle be stretched or strained. Adjust the pedal angle to compensate for this.

Furthermore, using a solid chair that does not swivel or roll is critical to getting a better pedal feel. 

What are Deadzones? What is Ghosting and Feathering?

A ‘Deadzone’ is a term used to describe an unregistered percentage of pedal application. A deadzone can either be at the beginning of the pedal press or the end of the pedal press.

Ghosting and/or Feathering is when the pedal input flickers at either 0% input or 100% input. This can have an on/off effect on performance, especially when trying to press the pedals to their maximum. It will essentially cause the game to release the pedal when at 100% to 99% and then flicker between the two. 

Deadzones can therefore be useful when setting up your pedals if you ever find yourself in this scenario. Ghosting and Feathering can be more noticeable on well-used pedals where the sensors can start to show signs of wear.

Deadzones can also be used to eliminate any ‘pedal riding’. This is where your foot rests on the pedal and creates a small amount of constant input, even if you don’t realise you’re doing it. A deadzone can be used to negate this input.

As mentioned, Deadzones are also helpful for top-end pedal input. For example, if you are using a load cell pedal with high resistance and struggle to reach either maximum brake or throttle press, you can apply a top-end deadzone to help reach the full range. 

You can adjust your deadzone settings in two ways (which will be covered below), either through your pedals specific firmware or through F1 2021.

The Difference Between Firmware and Software 

Firmware is the manufacturer’s dedicated permanent software that is adjustable via the manufacturer’s advised application (see below). Software (in this case) is relating to the Sim or Game settings that you use the pedals for. For example, F12021  has its own dedicated pedals settings within the game. 

Software and Firmware settings are not linked. Changing one will not affect the other. 

Below are the web pages of common pedal manufacturers and their advice for Firmware settings. It is important to note that each brand of pedals are slightly different and may have different setting procedures. It should also be mentioned that the Logitech range (G29, G920, etc) will not carry its Firmware settings over to Console versions of F1 2021. The changes in Firmware for Logitech will only be applicable for PC gaming.

Logitech – Downloads – G29 Driving Force Racing Wheel – Logitech Support + Download

Fanatec – Driver-Firmware-Instructions-Manual-EN_Web_02_MO.pdf (fanatec.com)

Thrustmaster – Thrustmaster – Technical support website

Heusinkveld – Download SmartControl • Heusinkveld

As mentioned above, it is necessary to go through the manufacturer’s guidance when calibrating your pedals. Firmware changes will result in a blanket settings base, meaning that whatever settings you apply, will be carried throughout all Sim racing games.

F1 2021 Pedal Settings

Within the ‘Calibration’ settings in F1 2021 you have a number of available controls for both the throttle and brake pedal. Here is what each one does:

• Throttle Deadzone – this will create an amount of pedal stroke with 0 input. You can adjust the deadzone up if you find your foot resting on throttle. Ideally, this should be left as 0.
  
• Throttle Linearity – this changes the input frequency at the lower and upper ranges of pedal travel. Meaning, initial pedal press 0% to 20% will create more pedal pressure and 80% to 100% will create less pedal pressure.
  
• Throttle Saturation – this is the intensity of pedal pressure. Turning this up will create full pedal pressure with less pedal travel. 
  
• Brake Deadzone – same as above 
  
• Brake Linearity – same as above 
  
• Brake Saturation – same as above

Using the “Test Button” feature, you can directly check what effect these settings will have on the pedal travel. 

Driver61’s Recommended Pedal Setup Guide for F1 2021

1. Calibrate and set your pedals using your manufacturer’s firmware application. 

Using the links posted above, go through your manufacturers recommended setup and calibration for your specific pedal set. Make sure to make these changes before opening the game

2. Turn on F1 2021 and adjust your in-game settings 

Open the “Calibration” menu and select button test, here is the next procedure:

• Press the brake as hard as you would normally. If you do not reach maximum pedal then adjust the SATURATION. 
• Next, rest your foot on/near the brake as you would normally. If there is an input registered, adjust the DEADZONE to negate this. 
• Now progressively press the brake pedal through its range. For potentiometer pedals, you can decrease LINEARITY to give a better pedal feel at lower ranges. For Load Cell and Hydraulic, leaving this at 50 is ok. 
• Repeat this process for the throttle. 

3. Test

Unfortunately, practice does make perfect. Choose a track you are comfortable with and set some laps, at pace. Adjust your Linearity first and then try another button test to check deadzones and saturation are still correct. 

4. Learn and Finesse 

Like with all aspects of Motorsport, tuning is an ongoing skill required for all high-level drivers. Learn exactly how these setup changes alter the handling of the car and how they affect your driving technique. Top-level E-Sports players will be making changes to their pedal settings for all variables, such as wet driving and track changes. Understanding when to make the right adjustments will put you at a serious advantage over your competitors.

The post Pedal Settings in F1 2021 appeared first on Driver61.

Passionate motorsport enthusiasts and gamers have been dipping their toes into sim racing for a long time now. If you are thinking about investing in a new sim racing setup, then be sure to read this article to gain a better understanding of your first sim wheel purchase. 

There is a lot to learn when talking about sim racing, and making the right choice of wheel can make a big difference to your overall experience. In this article, we will be touching on some of the basic concepts of what makes a good sim wheel, as well as an in-depth look at how sim wheels work and their associated costs.

What is a Racing Simulator Wheel?

Sim racing wheels consist of multiple parts, and can often be sold separately or as part of complete kits depending on the manufacturer. 

Complete kits are much easier to plug and play and do not require much configuration. However, you can achieve much higher levels of customisation on setups bought in separate pieces. 

The common parts you will need to be aware of when buying a sim wheel are:

• The wheel/rim – this is the steering wheel part itself, the part you hold in your hands. This can sometimes be sold separately, and on higher-spec wheels, can come in all shapes and configurations depending on your intended use. F1 style wheels are significantly different to GT car style wheels. Other options of wheel can include button layouts (where the buttons are) and grip material choices.
• The wheelbase – this is the power unit and what drives the steering wheel, giving it its force feedback sensation. Again, in higher-spec wheels, this is can be sold separately and in several different power unit types (more below).
• Shifters – these are what you use to change gear, they can be paddles mounted to the rim, or a stand-alone gear stick (often sold separately).
• Wheel to wheelbase mounting – usually only in higher-spec wheels where parts are sold separately. This is the plate or adaptor that allows you to attach the wheel to the wheelbase. Not all wheels are compatible with all wheelbase so be sure to check before buying.
• Wheelbase mounting – when buying a wheelbase, or complete set, make sure to understand how the wheel attaches to either your desk or sim rig. Having a solid mounting to a flat surface is essential to the performance of your wheel. Mountings can come in different forms, either clamps, direct screws or lap attachments. 
• Pedals – pedals can come in lots of shapes and sizes with different capabilities. Be careful when buying complete kits because pedals aren’t always included. When buying separately, make sure to check compatibility with the wheelbase.

What makes a sim wheel good? Comparison of Direct Drive vs Belt Driven vs Gear Driven

Some basic criteria that make a sim wheel pleasant to use:

• Force Feedback (FFB) realism
• Comfort and Customisation
• Price

There are literally hundreds of available steering wheels on the market today, with just as many online reviews telling you which one you should buy and which ones you shouldn’t. Unfortunately, this is not an article telling you which wheel is best for you, rather, we want to give you the information to make your own decisions.

First things first, if you have never used a wheel before, then it is strongly recommended that you try one out.

Whether it is a friend’s, a show model, or a pay-to-play experience. Having a sim wheel in your hands will instantly tell you what decision you should be making in terms of product quality and cost. 

There are some considerable jumps in FFB realism depending on the “drive type” of wheel. There are 3 main types to be aware of. In cost order: 

Direct Drive, Belt Driven and Gear Driven. 

The drive type refers to the power unit in the wheelbase that controls the level of force feedback given by the game. Force feedback is what makes a sim wheel feel real. It should mimic the real world sensation of driving perfectly. Any deviations in FFB can make the driving experience feel notchy, unpredictable and unintuitive. 

Direct Drive Wheels

Direct drive wheels are generally the most expensive of the 3. The motor in DD wheels is fixed to the steering wheel itself, giving direct feedback to the wheel. The accuracy, frequency and strength of inputs from the sim to the wheel is much higher for direct drive and can therefore give the best realistic feel. 

The ultimate downside to DD is the cost, with some setups coming in at over £1k for the wheelbase alone. There are however new introductions to the market, advertising “entry-level direct drive wheels”, these are fairly new and do promise a cheaper alternative.

Belt Driven Wheels

The middle ground is belt-driven motors. They run either one or two motors, connected by a belt/pulley. This controls the wheel and gives the feedback. Belt driven wheels have been around for a fairly long time now and can vary in price and quality. It is commonly thought that belt-driven wheels are the next best option if you chose not to go down the direct drive route. Belt driven wheels can range around the £300 to £800 mark. 

Gear Driven Wheels

Gear-driven wheels are the 3rd option, they run using a very similar concept to belt-driven wheels. Instead of a motor pulling a belt, the motor is attached to the wheel via plastic or metal gears that are meshed together. 

Gear-driven wheels were the original sim wheel design and are the cheapest on the list due to their low manufacturing costs and high accessibility. Gear-driven wheels are often a great starting point for new or inexperienced drivers to sim racing. Often labelled as the ‘gateway wheel’ to bigger and better things. 

To summarise, when it comes to customisation and tuning, Direct Drive is your best option. The majority of DD wheels on the market today are sold as separate components and offer a range of styles, buttons and FFB settings. 

For overall FFB feel, DD is the most real, but, both belt and gear driven wheels offer superb levels of motion. The ultimate factor is your budget. Belt and gear driven wheels are generally cheaper than direct-drive and can still provide a great driving experience. A lot of the top eSports drivers today use these entry-level wheels, so, again, do not be concerned about starting with one.

What to look out for when Buying a Sim Wheel

As mentioned above, there are 3 significant categories when it comes to choosing a wheel. All 3 options have their own pro’s and con’s which effectively determine their price. 

If you are picking a wheel for the first time, be sure to stick to the main big brands. Logitech, Thrustmaster, Fanatec, Simucube, AccuForce for example. The larger brands generally have a larger fan base, better customer service, better reviews and larger sources of spare parts and info. 

All of these are important factors that you may not have considered.

Your budget will play a big role in determining what wheel you should go for. If you’re looking to spend big money, around the £1k mark, then a Direct Drive wheel is probably best, whereas a budget of around £500 will be more suited to a belt-driven or entry-level DD setup. 

Gear-driven wheels are great starting points for smaller budgets, with hugely popular wheels like the Logitech G29 and G920 offering fantastic driver feel for around £200.

An additional point to consider is a manufacturer’s warranty, it is not uncommon for sim racing wheels to fail, so make sure you are covered if anything does go wrong.

Second-hand setups

Generally not advisable but can be a great way to land yourself a cheap, high-end wheel.

If you are convinced about buying second-hand then there are some main points to consider when buying. How much playtime has the wheel gone through and how does this compare to the manufacturer’s warranty? – very important. 

General wear and tear on a steering wheel should be obvious, marks, scratches and dust build-up can be signs of poor life. Making sure that the wheel functions as it should before purchasing is strongly advised. 

Ensure that what you are buying is compatible with your console or PC. Older style wheels are not always applicable to newer systems, so be sure to do your research when buying second hand.

What does a good wheel feel like?

Realism is key. Manufacturers have been pushing what is capable with sim wheel designs. Merging the virtual and real worlds as close as possible. 

A realistic feel through the wheel will ultimately make the car easier to control. Increasing feedback will help you know when the car is understeering or oversteering. You’ll feel every bump in the road, every kerb and every rumble strip. 

This is what makes sim racing so exciting! It has enabled the everyday driver to feel as if they are in the front seat of a Lamborghini GT3 car, or a retro F1 classic. Realism is what makes the game a ‘simulator’. 

What should you be looking out for then in terms of ‘feel’? 

Smoothness: the force feedback in the wheel should feel fluid, smooth and predictable. It is the same for real-world driving, if you are feeling a notchy, scratching sensation in the rotation of the wheel then there is most likely something wrong. 

Direct drive wheels have gotten this spot on as of recent. With belt-driven wheels close behind. Gear-driven wheels haven’t quite got the silk-like qualities of the other two but do still provide a progressive force feedback sensation. 

The design and shape of the steering wheel rim is dependant on personal preference, whether you prefer an F1 style, rectangular wheel design, compared to a more circular GT or Drift style wheel. 

It makes sense to buy a wheel for the type of game you will most likely be playing, F1 games therefore would prefer an F1 style wheel, whereas Gran Turismo Sport, Assetto Corsa or iRacing would probably lean more towards a GT style wheel. 

The next big thing is comfort in the hands and material choice of the wheel. Leather wheels are most common and most durable, they are however less comfortable than their Alcantara counterparts. 

Button locations and configurations also add to the realism of your setup. It is a massive advantage to have easily accessible buttons on the wheel so that you can change certain car setups, menu options, etc without the need for a separate controller or keyboard. 

How should you Secure your Wheel?

Mounting is everything (excuse the pun). It does not matter how good your wheel is, if it is not secured to a solid, fixed base, then it will be useless. 

This goes for all sim racing setups. A fixed mounting method is best for attaching your wheel either to a desk, or a dedicated rig. These can come in a variety of types, but the most common will be directly bolting the wheelbase to a surface. Not all wheelbases support this method of attachment, so be sure to check compatibility. 

Desk clamps are also fairly solid but do have a tendency to come loose if not tightened correctly. 

The reason why the connection should be solid is to avoid any play and movement. Extra added ‘wobble’ to your setup will be exaggerated through the feeling in the steering wheel, making FFB feel unnatural. You can easily ruin an impressive setup by having flex or play in the steering wheel mounting. 

Fix your wheel down!

Do you need a top-spec wheel to win?

This is a very heated topic within the sim racing community. With owners of high-end wheels saying you don’t need one, and owners of entry-level wheels saying they do need one. 

Who should you believe?

The research tells us that Direct Drive wheels, combined with solid mountings, will statistically give you a much better feel, realism and immersion and this should therefore make you more aware and sensitive to car handling characteristics. 

Is this always the case, however?

Most likely no. Unless you are a top-level E-Sports racer or have significant mileage plugged into a sim, it will be very hard for you to tell the difference between a £2,000 setup and an £800 setup. 

Think of this as a comparison, a real-world racing driver who has competed at the highest level of GT racing is told to drive the 2019 Porsche GT3 racecar, back to back with the 2020 version of that car. Instantly the driver will tell you the subtle differences between the two. Next, we put a driver who has never been on a track before into the two cars. Their experience will be completely different, they’ll notice the major points but will struggle to determine the intricacies that the race driver found.

The same can be said in sim wheel setups. The mid to entry-level wheels offer superb starting points for drivers wanting to make their first steps into sim racing. 

There are plenty of examples out there of drivers with admittedly low-end setups who strive in online events. The ‘Alien’ drivers out there will say that anyone can be competitive with 10-year-old budget rigs, and we agree!

Time and testing are what it takes to find something that works for you. It is easy to blame the equipment for being the reason you are off the pace, but difficult to realise faults in your own driving technique. 

The post How to Choose the Right Sim Wheel appeared first on Driver61.

In this article, Driver61 hopes to give you a full step by step guide to FFB in the new F1 2021 racing game. Whether you are new to the F1 racing platforms or have followed them from day one, this article will guide and educate you on all things force feedback.

https://www.racedepartment.com/news/f1-2021-the-game-review.106/

What is FFB?

Force Feedback (FFB) is the main sensory input from the sim to your body. It is critical to the sensation of driving that FFB is set correctly. Unfortunately, there are now many different types of wheel, wheel-base, pedals and game settings that make understanding FFB complicated.

This article aims to give you a better depth of knowledge regarding the specific settings within F1 2021 and the settings related to your particular setup. Also covered, is a section explaining your wheels specific Firmware settings which are different depending on the manufacturer of your steering wheel. 

Like all aspects of motorsport, the FFB settings may still require some adjustment to your personal preference. Variations in driving technique and style will mean that there is no ‘one size fits all’ setting that works for everyone. This will be covered in more detail below. 

If you want to skip directly to the correct way to set F1 2021 FFB Settings, then you can click here

What should correct FFB feel like? What is the best FFB?

A quick definition describes FFB as the relative rotational force provided by the steering wheel to replicate the in-game steering wheel movements. Simply put, the FFB provided by the game to your wheel, should replicate real-world turning forces. 

It is important to understand that unless you own a motion rig, air padded seats or vibration plates, the only way you will get any ‘real world’ feedback from a racing game will be through your FFB. It is therefore critical to have it set correctly.

FFB should be as close to real-life driving as possible. 

As a driver, you want to feel every kerb, every rumble strip and every bump in the road. Most importantly, however, you want to feel the weight of the car.

When the car turns into a bend, the weight of the car moves onto the outside wheels, as the weight transfers, the force through the steering wheel will change. When set correctly, you should be able to sense how the car is moving through the feeling in your hands, whether the car is understeering (feels light) or oversteering (sudden force) or even when the car is on its limit of grip. Pro and Esport drivers will have these settings dialled in and will always have full sensory awareness of the car’s movement.

A point to note; the drive-type wheel you use (direct drive, belt driven, gear driven) will ultimately limit the level of feel you can achieve. It is widely thought that direct drive steering wheels such as some of the Fanatec range provide a better feel than belt driven and gear driven wheels, like the Logitech and Thrustmaster’s. There is a great article written by simracingsetup.com that talks about the differences in more detail which we would recommend reading.

Steering Wheel Firmware vs F1 2021 Settings

Wheel Settings and Drivers

There is a lot of confusion when it comes to the differences between firmware settings and game settings. The two things are separate and need to be configured separately.

Firmware is your wheel’s specific settings, and act as a blanket setting for all games and sims. Your firmware is provided via dedicated programmes supplied by the manufacturer or 3rd party applications. For example, Fanatec Firmware will use a different setting programme to Thrustmaster’s Firmware. 

When you first install your wheel, often the manufacturer will provide a guide on how to set up and calibrate your wheel. Within these guides, you may have the option to control different properties of your wheel, such as FFB strength, lockout angle, dead zones, etc.

We advise that you follow the manufacturer’s guidance for adjusting your firmware settings. Please note that Firmware settings must be set before changing the in-game settings.

Please also be aware, if you are using a Logitech wheel, that Firmware settings are not transferable to XBOX or Playstation consoles and are only applicable for PC games.

Try these links for the manufacturers’ setup advice:

AccuForce – Documents and Manuals (simxperience.com)
Fanatec – Fanatec Tuning Menu Tutorial – YouTube
Thrustmaster – Thrustmaster – Technical support website
Logitech G29 + G920 – Downloads – Driving Force GT – Logitech Support + Download
Simucube – https://shop.gperformance.eu/simucube-profiles-iracing-assetto-corsa/

What is Clipping?

Clipping is where the game is outputting a larger force to your wheel than it is physically able to produce. This will create a ‘dead zone’ where the wheel will max its available output and you will lose feel at the harsher ends of force. Clipping is only apparent in F1 2021 with the entry level, gear or belt-driven wheels.

If your wheel is clipping, it will be difficult to feel when the car hits kerbs, vibrates or generates certain car movements like snap oversteer. 

To know when your wheel is clipping in F1 2021 can be quite difficult, as there is no in-game display showing the force output to the wheel. To avoid clipping, we suggest you follow our setup advice below. You can reduce the risk of clipping by reducing the ‘Vibration & Force Feedback Strength’ value in the settings menu.

Graph showing Force Output vs Wheel Output. Blue being the game output force and Red being the force given by the wheel

F1 2021 FFB Settings Explained

Vibration & Force Feedback – ‘On’ will give FFB, ‘Off’ will turn FFB off.

Vibration & Force Feedback Strength – this is the overall FFB strength given through the wheel. A higher number here will give a stronger effect. This setting will affect all other settings for FFB. As mentioned above, the strength of your FFB must be tuned to avoid clipping.

On Track Effects – as the name suggests, this is the FFB strength provided by bumps, undulations, and changes in road surface texture. A higher value here is a stronger effect. 

Rumble Strip Effects – again, as the name would suggest, this is the strength of FFB when driving over kerbs, rumble strips, etc. A higher value here is a stronger effect.

Off Track Effects – this is the strength of FFB when off track. For example, when on the grass, gravel or exit tarmac. A higher value here is a stronger effect.

Wheel Damper – this is the smoothing effect of the FFB in relation to the car’s tyres. FFB can sometimes feel very notchy and sharp, this setting will smooth this out and cause the wheel to feel heavier. A higher setting here will cause a heavier feeling wheel but with a smoother FFB.

Understeer Enhance – this setting will exaggerate the feeling of understeer. Understeer is noticeably felt by the steering wheel going light when turning. This setting will increase this feeling, making it easier to notice when the car is understeering.
This setting is more of a personal preference than a fixed rule and is a great way for new players to react to understeer. 

Maximum Wheel Rotation – this is the maximum amount of rotation that your steering wheel can do from lock to lock. This setting should be matched to your manufacturers setting. I.e if your wheel has a 900° lock out angle, set it to 900.

Driver61 Setup Guide for FFB in F1 2021

1. Install and Calibrate your specific Firmware Settings (if available)

This is a step we recommend for all first-time users, go through the manufacturers suggested setup procedure via the links posted above. Make sure to do a full calibration and system reset to check everything is performing as should.

     2. Set your wheels specific Firmware settings using these links:

Fanatec – https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/843/f1-2019-pc-fanatec-recommended-settings
Thrustmaster – https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/kb/107-en/
Logitech (only applicable for PC players) – Downloads – Driving Force GT – Logitech Support + Download

    3. F1 2021 FFB Settings Guide

For all setups, ‘Vibration and Force Feedback should be ON

For high end, Direct Drive wheels (Fanatec DD1, Accuforce, Simucube, etc)

• Vibration & Force Feedback Strength: 55 to 65
• On Track Effects: 15 to 20
• Rumble Strip Effects: 25
• Off Track Effects: 20
• Wheel Damper: 0
• Understeer Enhance: OFF

For mid-range and belt-driven wheels (Fanatec CSL, Fanatec Clubsport, Thrustmaster T300, etc)

• Vibration & Force Feedback Strength: 70 to 80
• On Track Effects: 20 to 25
• Rumble Strip Effects: 30
• Off Track Effects: 20
• Wheel Damper: 0
• Understeer Enhance: OFF

For entry-level wheels (Logitech range, Thrustmaster T150, etc)

• Vibration & Force Feedback Strength: 85 to 97
• On Track Effects: 30 to 40
• Rumble Strip Effects: 35
• Off Track Effects: 25
• Wheel Damper: 15
• Understeer Enhance: OFF

For all wheel types, Understeer Enhance is a personal preference, try testing with both On and Off

    4. Testing

Go out on track in a practice session and use a circuit you are familiar with. Take time to get used to the new settings before making personal adjustments to FFB. Main adjustments to consider: Vibration & FFB Strength, Understeer Enhance and On Track Effects.

    5. Adjustment

Like with all motorsport, changes to setup are a matter of personal preference. Every driver’s style and technique is slightly different and therefore will require some finessing. It is not unheard of for pro and E-sport’s drivers to make individual changes depending on circuit and weather conditions. Learning what each setting does and how it feels is a massive advantage over the field.

The post F1 2021 FFB Settings Guide appeared first on Driver61.